How to Propagate Succulents in India – Leaves, Stem Cuttings & Pups Guide

Propagating succulents is one of the most satisfying things you can do with plants. A single healthy Echeveria becomes ten. A fallen leaf you were about to brush off the table turns into a new rosette in eight weeks. A Jade Plant with one woody stem becomes three cuttings, and each one roots into its own plant within a month.

The process itself is simple. But timing matters, and technique matters, and generic guides rarely address either for Indian conditions. The monsoon brings its own problems that a UK or US guide simply won’t mention. Indian summers, oddly enough, have a propagation sweet spot that most Western timing advice misses entirely. And a few methods that work fine in dry Western climates turn unreliable the moment India’s humidity gets involved.

Twelve years of propagating succulents through every Indian season, from the dry cool of November to the sodden humidity of August, sit behind this guide. It covers every method with India-specific timing, realistic success rates, and the troubleshooting that turns a frustrating failure into an actual new plant.

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Why Propagate Succulents? The Practical Reasons

Expand your collection for free. A single purchased Echeveria can become a collection of ten within one growing season. The economics are straightforward: one ₹200 plant, propagated correctly, produces ₹2,000 worth of new plants.

Rescue a damaged or leggy plant. Succulents that have stretched (etiolated) from insufficient light, or lost their lower leaves to overwatering, can be beheaded. Re-root the top cutting as a fresh, compact plant. The stump left behind usually throws up multiple new rosettes on its own.

Share with others. Propagated succulents make genuinely appreciated gifts, especially when the recipient knows it was grown from a cutting off your own plant. A rooted offset in a small terracotta pot, with a hand-written care note, costs almost nothing and feels properly personal.

Maintain variety continuity. Succulents are mortal. If a rare variety starts to decline, cuttings already rooted elsewhere mean it survives even if the parent plant doesn’t.

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The Four Propagation Methods — Overview

Water propagation (suspending a cutting above water until aerial roots develop) sometimes gets mentioned as a fifth method. Skip it. It works poorly in India’s already-humid ambient conditions and isn’t recommended here. Stick to soil propagation for results you can actually rely on.

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When to Propagate Succulents in India – The Seasonal Calendar

Most international guides get this section wrong for Indian conditions. Our seasons don’t behave like a UK spring or a US Zone 9 winter, so the timing advice needs a rethink.

Best propagation windows: October–November and February–March

Post-monsoon (October–November) is the optimal Indian propagation window. Temperatures are cooling, humidity is dropping from monsoon peaks, and light is strong and consistent. The plants themselves are entering their most active growing phase. Cuttings callous cleanly in the lower-humidity air. Roots develop actively in the warming soil, and new plants establish through the entire cool season ahead. This is when to do your most ambitious propagation work.

February–March is the second-best window. Plants are growing actively as warmth returns, humidity is at its annual low, and new plants established now get 2–3 months of good growing conditions before the monsoon arrives.

Good propagation window: March–May (summer)

Indian summer is surprisingly good for stem cuttings and offset separation. The warmth speeds up root development. The catch: very high temperatures (above 38°C) slow callous formation and stress fresh cuttings. For Delhi, Rajasthan, and Gujarat peak summer, give newly propagated plants some shade and keep the soil a touch cooler.

Avoid: July–August (peak monsoon)

High humidity and weak light in July and August practically invite fungal rot on cuttings. This is the one period to avoid active propagation in India. Freshly cut surfaces need to callous (dry and form a protective seal) before going into soil. In 85%+ humidity, that callousing crawls along, and the wound stays vulnerable to fungal infection far longer than it would in drier air. Cuttings taken in July–August frequently rot at the base before roots ever form.

If your plant is damaged or you’ve no choice but to propagate during monsoon: use rooting hormone powder to speed up callous formation, allow a longer than usual drying period (5–7 days instead of 2–3), place cuttings somewhere well-ventilated, and use a near-mineral soil mix with minimal cocopeat.

Acceptable: September (late monsoon transition)

Late summer (September) and post-monsoon (October–November) remain the best windows to propagate. September sits in between: humidity is declining, temperatures are moderating, and propagation success rates improve a fair bit compared to peak monsoon. Proceed with care during September, but expect better results than July–August.

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Method 1 – Leaf Pulling

Best for: Echeveria, Sedum, Graptoveria, Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum Not suitable for: Haworthia, Aloe, Gasteria, Crassula ovata (Jade Plant), Sansevieria — these genera don’t reliably propagate from individual leaves India success rate: 55–70% (more variable than other methods but produces many plants simultaneously)

Leaf propagation works because many succulents have totipotent cells at the leaf base: cells capable of turning into any plant tissue, including roots and new rosettes. When an intact leaf is removed from the stem and placed in the right conditions, these cells switch on and produce first roots, then a miniature new plant.

Step-by-step: leaf pulling

Step 1 — Choose the right leaves

Pick leaves from the middle of the plant. Skip the newest, innermost ones (too young, not enough stored energy) and skip the oldest outer ones too (often dry, and success rates drop). Go for firm, plump leaves with good healthy colour. If a leaf shows yellowing, wrinkling or spots, leave it alone.

Step 2 — Remove with a clean twist, not a pull

This step matters more than any other: the leaf must come away from the stem with its entire base intact. A partial leaf, one where the base has torn and left a bit of itself behind on the stem, simply won’t propagate. Hold the leaf close to the stem and twist it gently side to side while pulling slightly outward. Hear a clean “snap” and see the full chalky-white base on the detached leaf? That’s success. A torn, ragged base means the leaf isn’t viable. Discard it.

Don’t cut leaves for propagation. Cutting leaves leaves you with a partial base, and that rarely propagates.

Step 3 — Callous the base (2–4 days in India)

Lay the detached leaves on a dry tray, paper or clean mesh somewhere shaded and well ventilated. Not in soil yet. The cut base needs to form a callous: a dry, slightly hardened seal over the wound. Skip this and the moist wound becomes a rot point the moment it touches soil, not a root point.

In India: 2–3 days is enough during October–March in most cities. In humid coastal cities like Mumbai, Chennai or Kochi, or during the September transition, stretch this to 3–4 days. In peak monsoon (July–August, if you can’t avoid propagating then), give it 5–7 days minimum in a very well-ventilated indoor spot.

Step 4 — Lay on dry succulent soil — do not bury

Prepare a shallow tray or small container with fast-draining succulent mix. Lay the calloused leaves flat on the soil surface, base end touching the soil, leaf angled slightly upward. Don’t bury it or push it into the soil. New roots grow from the base into the soil on their own; burying the leaf smothers this process and invites rot instead.

In India, a terracotta tray beats a plastic one for leaf propagation. Passive evaporation through the terracotta walls keeps the soil slightly drier between mistings, which suits this stage of propagation nicely.

Step 5 — Misting schedule

Don’t water leaf propagations the way you’d water an established succulent. Mist the soil lightly with a spray bottle every 3–4 days, just enough to keep the surface slightly moist without waterlogging it. The leaf is running on its own stored moisture at this stage; it doesn’t need water at the base yet.

In Indian conditions: mist every 3–4 days during dry seasons, and stretch to every 5–7 days in humid monsoon or coastal weather, where ambient humidity does some of the work for you.

Step 6 — Indirect light during propagation

Keep propagating leaves in bright indirect light, never full direct sun. Direct sun dries out leaves faster than they can grow roots to compensate. A bright windowsill or a covered balcony works well.

Step 7 — Wait and observe (3–8 weeks)

In India’s warm months (October–May), the first signs show up in 3–4 weeks: small pink or white root threads pushing out from the base, followed by a tiny rosette bud. By weeks 6–8, you’ll see a miniature plant at the base with its own small leaves.

Step 8 — Transition: when to move to individual pots

Once the baby plant has grown 4–6 leaves of its own and measures roughly 1–2 cm across, it’s ready to be separated from the mother leaf and potted on its own. By now the mother leaf is usually shrivelled, having handed over its stored energy to the new plant. That’s normal. The mother leaf doesn’t survive propagation. The new plant does.

Pot the baby succulent in a 5–7 cm terracotta pot with standard succulent mix. Start regular, very light watering. From here, treat it like an established succulent, easing it into more light over 2–3 weeks.

Variety-specific leaf propagation notes:

• Echeveria: The most reliable leaf-propagator of the lot. Most varieties root and form a rosette within 5–8 weeks in Indian conditions. Farina varieties (Perle von Nurnberg, E. laui) propagate well, but handle the leaves carefully so you don’t rub off the farina.
• Sedum: Easy, and reliably so. Sedum adolphii and Sedum rubrotinctum ‘Aurora’ both propagate readily from leaves, with success rates near 80% in decent Indian conditions.
• Graptoveria and Graptopetalum: Reliable, and a touch faster than Echeveria in warm weather. Fred Ives and Debbie both do well.
• Pachyphytum (Moonstones): Propagates from leaves but takes its time: give it 8–12 weeks. Handle leaves gently, the farina here is delicate.

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Method 2 – Stem Cuttings

Best for: Jade Plant (Crassula ovata), all Crassula species, Echeveria (especially leggy plants), Sedum, Graptoveria, Kalanchoe, Euphorbia (with precautions), string-type succulents (String of Pearls, Burro’s Tail) India success rate: 80–90% — the most reliable propagation method in Indian conditions

Stem cuttings give you new plants faster, and more reliably, than leaf pulling does. The larger cutting simply carries more stored energy than a single leaf, which makes it tougher during the rooting period.

Step-by-step: stem cuttings

Step 1 — Choose the right cutting

Select a healthy stem with at least 3–5 cm of length below the lowest leaf you want to keep. It should carry a few good leaves, firm stems, no sign of pest damage or disease. Skip cuttings from a plant that’s currently flowering. It simply doesn’t have the energy to hold flowers and grow new roots at the same time.

Step 2 — Cut cleanly with sterilised scissors or a blade

Use clean, sharp scissors or a blade sterilised with rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol, available at pharmacies across India for ₹50–₹100 a bottle) or diluted neem oil. A clean cut keeps the wound small and cuts down infection risk. A crushed or ragged cut from dull scissors invites fungus in far more easily.

Cut just above a leaf node, the point where a leaf attaches to the stem. This leaves a small stub on the parent plant, and new growth will usually emerge from it, so you end up with two plants instead of one.

Step 3 — Remove lower leaves

Strip off leaves from the bottom 2–3 cm of the cutting. These would sit buried in soil anyway, and they’d just rot there. This bare section is what roots. Leave the upper leaves alone.

Step 4 — Callous the cut end (3–5 days in India)

Stand the cutting upright in an empty pot, or lay it flat on a dry tray. Leave it in a shaded, airy spot for 3–5 days. The cut end should turn dry and slightly sealed: it moves from a fresh, moist wound to a dry, faintly shrunken, firm tip. This callousing step isn’t optional. Plant an unset cutting straight into soil and you’ll almost always get rot at the cut point.

India timing: 3 days is enough in October–March in most cities. In Mumbai, Chennai and other coastal cities, give it 4–5 days, since humidity slows the drying down. During peak monsoon, stretch it to 5–7 days, with a fan running nearby for gentle airflow.

Step 5 — Optional rooting hormone

Rooting hormone powder is optional, but it does speed up success rates for both leaf and stem propagation. Apply it (sold on Amazon.in as Indole Butyric Acid, or IBA powder, for ₹100–₹300 a pack) to the calloused cut end. Dip lightly, tap off the excess. It can shave 1–2 weeks off root development and nudges success rates up a bit. For tough, reliable varieties like Jade Plant, Sedum or common Echeveria, you can skip it. For pricier or fussier varieties, it’s worth using.

Step 6 — Plant in dry succulent mix

Bury the stripped, calloused section 2–3 cm deep in fast-draining succulent mix. The cutting should stand upright and stable. If it leans or topples, prop it with a small stick or stone until roots take hold. Don’t use moist or freshly watered soil for this first planting. Dry soil keeps the callous intact instead of soaking it before it’s ready.

Step 7 — Wait before watering (7–10 days)

Leave the newly planted cutting unwatered for 7–10 days. The callous finishes sealing during this time, and the first root threads start pushing out from the cut end into the dry soil, searching for moisture. Water too early, and you fill the soil before the plant can even use it, which raises rot risk right at the cut.

After 7–10 days, water lightly. Moisten just the top 3–4 cm of soil, then let it dry out fully before watering again.

Step 8 — The tug test (3–4 weeks)

After 3–4 weeks, grasp the cutting gently and apply the slightest upward pull. If it resists, feels anchored, roots have taken and the cutting is now running as its own plant. If it slides out with no resistance at all, roots haven’t formed yet. Put it back, wait another week, then try again. Don’t test more than once a week: you’ll only disturb whatever roots are trying to form.

Step 9 — Transition to regular care

Once the tug test confirms rooting, treat the cutting like any established plant. Start regular soak-and-dry watering, ease it into its permanent light spot over two weeks, and feed it lightly once, in October or February.

Jade Plant specific: Jade Plants are about as easy and reliable as stem cuttings get. Cuttings of 5–10 cm with 3–5 leaves root vigorously in India’s warm conditions. The woody stem base can take a bit longer to callous than softer-stemmed varieties, so give mature Jade Plant cuttings 5–7 days. A propagated Jade Plant, incidentally, makes a lovely gift with real cultural meaning here.

Jade plant succulent guide | Jade plant care India

Euphorbia caution: All Euphorbia species ooze a caustic milky sap when cut. Wear gloves and eye protection when taking cuttings. Let them dry in a shaded spot for 5–7 days before planting: the sap needs to dry out completely, or it will burn the root zone.

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Method 3 – Offset and Pup Separation

Best for: Aloe vera, Haworthia fasciata, Haworthia cooperi, Gasteria, Agave, Sansevieria, Crassula (most species), Echeveria (offsets, not leaf pulling) India success rate: 90–95%, the most reliable propagation method overall Why it works so well: Offsets are already partly developed plants. They come with their own leaf rosette and often some root system of their own. Unlike a cutting or a leaf, an offset starts with a head start.

Step-by-step: offset / pup separation

Step 1 — Identify ready offsets

An offset is ready to separate when it has its own set of leaves (at least 4–6 distinct leaves for Haworthia; 3–4 for Echeveria side shoots) and is at least one-quarter the size of the parent plant. Don’t separate offsets too early. Pulling off tiny buds stresses both parent and offset for no real gain. Wait until the offset has stored enough energy to stand on its own.

Step 2 — Remove the parent plant from its pot

The cleanest approach, for most separations, is to lift the entire parent plant out of its container, brush the soil off the root zone, and see exactly where the offset attaches. It’s far easier to cut cleanly with the roots visible than to go fishing around blind through soil.

Step 3 — Separate cleanly

Best case, the offset comes away with a gentle sideways pull. It’s already rooted and just needs disconnecting from the parent stem. If it’s firmly attached by a connecting stem, cut as close to the parent as you can with clean, sterilised scissors. Keep as many of the offset’s own roots intact as possible.

For Haworthia and Aloe: offsets are almost always joined by a short underground stolon. Cut the stolon cleanly. Most roots stay intact and the offset settles in fast once repotted.

Step 4 — Allow cut points to dry (1–2 days)

Cut points on the offset or parent need a brief callousing period. 24–48 hours on a dry tray is enough for most offset cuts, since the wound is small. This is shorter than for stem cuttings, simply because the cut surface here is smaller and the offset still has its root system doing the work.

Step 5 — Pot the offset

Use a 5–8 cm terracotta pot (2–3 cm wider than the offset’s widest point) with standard succulent mix. Plant at the same depth it was growing at when attached to the parent. Don’t bury the crown.

Step 6 — Water after 3–5 days

Wait 3–5 days before the first watering, so cut points callous fully. Then water lightly and get back to standard soak-and-dry as the offset settles in on its own.

Replant the parent plant in fresh succulent mix in its container at the same time. It may look a bit diminished right after offset removal, but it typically bounces back within 4–6 weeks and often throws up new offsets in the same season.

India-specific notes by genus:

• Aloe vera: Produces pups prolifically. A mature plant can carry 5–10 at once. Separate any pup that’s at least 8–10 cm tall. In India’s warm conditions, each becomes an independent plant fast.

Aloe vera care guide India

• Haworthia fasciata: Clusters over time. Separate offsets once they’re clearly developing roots of their own. One of the most reliable propagators going in India.

Zebra plant care guide India | Zebra plant variety guide

• Gasteria: Offsets slowly, but reliably when it does. These are among the most cold and humidity-tolerant propagations you’ll find.
• Sansevieria: Pups appear at the base and separate very cleanly. They’re basically independent plants from the moment they emerge, with their own distinct stem.

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Method 4 – Beheading (for Leggy Succulents)

Best for: Any rosette succulent gone leggy (etiolated) from insufficient light. It’s the most common indoor succulent problem in India. India success rate: 85–90% When to use it: When a once-compact Echeveria, Graptoveria, or Crassula has stretched into a tall, spindly stem with a rosette on top and bare stem below. That’s a sure sign it hasn’t been getting enough light.

Beheading sounds dramatic. Really, it’s the most generous thing you can do for a leggy succulent. It gives you a new compact cutting to re-root, and the cut stump usually throws up multiple new rosettes, turning one sorry-looking plant into three or four healthy ones.

Step-by-step: beheading

Step 1 — Cut the head

Take sterilised scissors or a blade and cut the rosette head off the leggy stem. Leave 2–3 cm of stem below the rosette. That stem section is your cutting base for rooting.

Step 2 — Remove lower leaves from the cutting stem

Strip leaves off the bottom 2 cm of the cutting so you’ve got bare stem to root from. Don’t throw the stripped leaves away. Set them on a propagation tray instead, since you can leaf-propagate these at the same time.

Step 3 — Callous the cut end (3–5 days)

Same callous process as for stem cuttings above.

Step 4 — Root the beheaded cutting

Plant in fast-draining succulent mix once the callous forms. Follow Steps 6–9 from the stem cutting method above. In Indian warm conditions, the beheaded rosette re-roots in 3–4 weeks and grows on as a compact, well-proportioned plant.

Step 5 — Watch the stump

Leave the parent stump in its pot. It’ll start pushing out new rosette buds within 3–6 weeks from the leaf nodes along the remaining stem. What was one leggy, unattractive plant turns into several new ones. Keep watering the stump on its normal schedule; don’t let it dry out completely during this regrowth phase.

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Propagation by Variety – India Quick Reference

For variety identification and care: Succulent plant names India

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What NOT to Propagate – Varieties That Don’t Work by Leaves

Ask any Indian succulent beginner about this: you pull a perfect leaf off a Haworthia or Jade Plant, wait two months, and nothing happens.

These varieties do NOT propagate reliably from individual leaves:

• Haworthia (all species) — use offsets only
• Gasteria — use offsets; leaf propagation is very unreliable
• Aloe vera — use offsets only
• Crassula ovata (Jade Plant) — stem cuttings are the way to go here. Leaf propagation can technically work, but it’s painfully slow with a low success rate.
• Sansevieria — use offsets; leaf section propagation works but the new plants lose variegation and come out plain green
• Agave — use offsets only
• Lithops and Conophytum — skip leaf propagation altogether; stick to seed or offsets

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Setting Up a Propagation Station in India

No special equipment needed here. These materials cover all four propagation methods.

Essential:

• Clean scissors or blade (sterilise with rubbing alcohol before use): pharmacy-grade isopropyl alcohol ₹50–₹100
• Shallow terracotta tray or small terracotta pots (5–8 cm) for individual propagations, ₹20–₹80 each
• Fast-draining succulent mix. DIY recipe: 40% coarse river sand + 40% cocopeat + 20% perlite
• Small spray bottle for misting leaf propagations, ₹50–₹150

Recommended:

• Rooting hormone powder (IBA / Indole Butyric Acid): Amazon.in, ₹100–₹300
• Labels and permanent marker. Write the variety and date of propagation, it matters once you have several trays going at once
• Transparent plastic humidity dome (inverted clear plastic box or a cut plastic bottle). Handy for stem cuttings during peak summer, stops them drying out too fast

For India-specific material sourcing:

Best soil for succulents India — coarse river sand, cocopeat, perlite sources and ratios Succulent pots India — terracotta propagation trays and small pot guide

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Troubleshooting – When Propagation Fails

Leaf turned yellow or mushy within 2 weeks Cause: soil was too moist when the leaf was placed. The cut base hadn’t calloused fully, or ambient humidity was too high (common in coastal cities July–September). Fix: use drier soil for propagation, extend the callous period, and make sure there’s good ventilation around the tray.

Leaf dried out and shrivelled without producing roots or rosette Cause: too much direct sun. Sometimes it’s just not enough moisture during the propagation period, or the leaf base got torn instead of cleanly separated. Fix: move to bright indirect light, mist every 3–4 days, and make sure future leaves are pulled off with a full, clean base.

Stem cutting rotted at the base Cause: not enough callous time. Soil too moist at first watering. Watered before roots had even formed. Fix: extend the callous period to 5+ days, use drier starting soil, and wait 10 days before the first watering after planting.

Stem cutting looks fine but won’t root after 6 weeks Cause: propagated during monsoon or peak summer heat, when there’s not enough light to fuel root development. Sometimes the pot is simply too large for the cutting. Fix: move to brighter indirect light, keep temperature in the 22–30°C range, and try rooting hormone on a fresh cutting.

Offset rotted after separation Cause: root damage during separation, combined with overwatering. Cut point wasn’t calloused before potting. Fix: allow a 2-day callous after separation, wait 5 days before first watering, and check the offset’s roots before potting, remove any damaged sections.

No new rosettes forming on parent stump after beheading (after 8 weeks) Cause: parent plant in poor health or dormancy. Not enough light. Fix: keep the parent stump in bright light with regular, light watering. Be patient, some plants take 6–10 weeks to begin stump regrowth.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Q1. How do you propagate succulent plants step by step? For beginners, offset separation is easiest. Remove the baby plant growing beside the parent, let the cut point dry for 24–48 hours, then pot it in fast-draining soil. Wait 3–5 days before that first watering. Leaf propagation works differently: twist a healthy leaf cleanly off the stem, keeping the full base intact, and lay it flat on dry succulent soil. Mist every 3–4 days and give it 4–8 weeks to grow roots and a tiny rosette. For stem cuttings, cut a healthy stem, strip the lower leaves, and let it callous for 3–5 days before planting in dry soil. First watering comes after 7–10 days, not before.

Q2. Can all succulents be propagated from leaves? No. Only a handful of genera do this reliably. Echeveria, Sedum, Graptoveria and Graptopetalum all propagate well from leaves. Haworthia, Aloe, Gasteria, Jade Plant (Crassula ovata), Agave and Sansevieria won’t propagate reliably from single leaves. Use offsets for those instead.

Q3. When is the best time to propagate succulents in India? October–November, right after the monsoon, is the ideal window. Humidity is dropping, temperatures cooling, light is strong, and plants are entering their most active growth phase. February–March comes a close second. Skip propagating in peak monsoon. July and August bring high humidity and weak light, a perfect recipe for fungal rot on your cuttings.

Q4. How long does succulent propagation take in India? Offset separation gives you an established, independent plant in 2–4 weeks. Stem cuttings root in 3–5 weeks under India’s warm conditions. Leaf propagation is slower: 6–12 weeks from removal to a baby plant big enough to pot on its own. That warmth we get here actually works in our favour. Propagation runs faster than in cooler Western climates because heat accelerates root development.

Q5. What is the success rate of succulent leaf propagation? Under good Indian conditions (October–March, fast-draining soil, indirect light, correct misting), expect 55–70% success. That’s lower than stem cuttings (80–90%) or offset separation (90–95%). Leaf propagation is simply the most unpredictable of the three. To improve your odds, make sure the full base comes away intact when pulling the leaf, let it callous completely before placing on soil, and stick to the October–March window rather than monsoon months.

Q6. How do you propagate cactus in India? Most cactus root best from stem cuttings (pads for Opuntia, columnar sections for Cereus) or from offsets. Take a clean pad or stem section and let the cut surface callous for 7–14 days. Cactus need longer callousing time than soft succulents do. Plant upright in near-mineral, fast-draining soil, and water sparingly, once every 2–3 weeks, until a gentle tug confirms rooting. Columnar cactus (Cereus) and pad cactus (Opuntia) are among the easiest to propagate. Globe cactus like Golden Barrel or Ferocactus won’t propagate from cuttings at all; grow these from seed or offsets only.

Cactus care guide India | Types of cactus India

Q7. Do I need rooting hormone for succulent propagation? It’s optional, though it does speed up leaf and stem propagation success rates measurably. For common, easy varieties, Echeveria, Sedum, Jade Plant, Aloe pups, don’t bother. Save it for expensive, rare varieties where a failed cutting stings: rare Echeveria hybrids, slow-rooting Crassula cultivars. Here, rooting hormone earns its keep. You’ll find it on Amazon.in, search “IBA rooting hormone powder”, for ₹100–₹300.

Q8. Why did my succulent cutting rot instead of root? A few usual suspects. The cut end wasn’t calloused long enough before planting (give it 3–5 days minimum, 5–7 days if you’re in humid coastal conditions). The soil was moist when the cutting went in, always use dry soil for new cuttings. The first watering came too soon; wait 7–10 days. Or the cutting was started during monsoon (July–August), when ambient humidity slows callousing and invites fungal growth.